It’s been a while now, and I had every intention of writing a summary of my time in Bolivia and Peru.  Somehow I never managed to get around to it, and only now have I uploaded pictures to flickr.  Check them out!

In short, my time in Bolivia and Peru was wonderful.  The weather was incredible, the people were amazing.  I so much appreciated the culture, and the scenery was breathtaking. My photos don’t do it justice…

The highlights of my trip were staying with a host family on an island in Lake Titicaca and hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.

Sadly, my camera broke when I reached the peak of Dead Woman’s Pass  (on the second of four days) - the highest part of the Inca Trail hike, so I didn’t actually get to take any pictures of Machu Picchu.  My pictures are also a little bit out of order - the few I took from the Inca Trail come first, then Ollantaytambo, Lake Titicaca (including Taquile Island and one of the floating islands), Puno and finally Ollantaytambo (technically in Bolivia).

Enjoy!

I don´t plan to blog much - if at all - during this trip, but if you want to follow my travels, check out the below itinerary from the group (GAPadventures.com) I am traveling with:

March 27 Arrive La Paz*

*I arrived a day early to check out the city on my own and have a day to acclimate to the altitude.  I am staying at a beautiful hotel (hotelrosario.com - check it out)

Founded by Alonso de Mendoza in 1548, La Ciudad de Nuestra Señora de La Paz (the City of Our Lady of Peace) is the highest capital in the world. Although Sucre is the official capital, La Paz is the Bolivian centre of commerce, finance and industry, and the de facto capital. This is a busy modern city, with its centre at the base of a canyon 5 km (3 miles) wide and sprawling impromptu housing all the way up the surrounding hillsides. The city is at nearly 4000 m (13,120 ft) above sea level, so visitors should be prepared for cool evenings and mornings.

Explore the city’s many fine museums or its historic ecclesiastical structures, such as the Iglesia de San Francisco, whose architectural details reflect the indigenous and mestizo heritage of modern Bolivia. The city is also renowned for its many markets, including the Mercado de Hechicería (Witches’ Market), where Paceños and visitors may purchase potions and incantations made from all sorts of herbs, seeds, and secret ingredients to remedy any number of illnesses (real or imagined) and protect from evil spirits. With streets lined with market stalls and vendors, the pace on the street and the vibrant atmosphere is an incredible experience. There is also a thriving black market and a Carnaval market, where locals purchase carnival costumes. Discover a wealth of shops selling all sorts of handicrafts, mainly alpaca wool products, silver jewellery, woven textiles and leather goods.

Visit, as an optional tour, one of the many museums or partake in a visit to the world’s highest ski resort, Chacaltaya (5600 m/18,368 ft). To the south of the city is the Valley of the Moon, with crater-like formations made of sand.

March 28 La Paz / Tiahuanaco
Little is known about the Tiahuanaco people who constructed the great ceremonial centre on the southern shore of Lake Titicaca over 1000 years ago. We spend most of the day visiting these mysterious ruins—a cradle of Inca civilization—before returning to La Paz.

Peru is frequently referred to as the ‘Land of the Incas’. It is true that the Incas formed the greatest empire on the continent and left mysterious cities such as Machu Picchu. However, it is important to remember that the Incas were the only the last in a long series of Peruvian civilizations spanning several thousand years and the ruins of many of these earlier civilizations can also be visited. Peru is made up of three main geographical areas: the Andes, the Amazon and the desert coastal area; during this trip we concentrate on the Andean region of both Peru and Bolivia.

March 29 Puno
Enjoy spectacular views of the countryside on a full day of travel from La Paz, around Lake Titicaca and on to Puno.

Located at 3830 m above sea level, Puno is the highest night stop on the tour. As a result the weather can be extreme with very cold nights and a strong sun during the day. Puno is also known for its wealth of traditional dances; there are up to 100 different varieties, usually performed in the street processions celebrating Catholic feast days. Hopefully you visit at the right time and catch one of these celebrations. A popular optional activity in Puno is a visit to the spectacular chullpas (funerary towers) of Sillustani, a pre-Inca archaeological site which can (time permitting) be visited upon return from the Islands of Lake Titicaca.

Approximate Distance: 297km
Estimated Travel Time: 7.30 hours

March 30-31 Lake Titicaca / Taquile Island (L, D, B)
This morning we board a boat on Lake Titicaca. We head to Taquile Island for lunch in a local restaurant and the chance for some shopping in the local weaving cooperatives. From there we head to Amantani where overnight with a local family and enjoy typical music of the area. The following morning we will visit the floating islands of Uros en route to Puno.

Titicaca is the largest lake in the world above 2000m, and the views from both Amantaní and Taquile Islands are stunning. On our way to Taquile Island we pass the floating islands of the Uros people. The Uros began their unusual floating existence centuries ago in an effort to isolate themselves from the Colla and Inca tribes. Sadly, the Uros language has died out, and today they speak Aymara due to intermarriage with Aymara-speakers. Today about 300 families live on the islands, however their numbers are slowly declining.

The Totora reeds that grow in the shallows of the lake are used for making everything from the islands themselves to the model boats that the islanders sell. The islands are made up of layers upon layers of reeds; as the layers closest to the water start to rot, they are replaced with fresh reeds on top. The reeds are also used to build their boats, which if constructed well will last up to 6 months.

The people of Taquile Island’s unique culture, style of dress and lifestyle make for a memorable visit. The men of the community do all the knitting, as this is strictly a male domain, while the women do the spinning. High quality, locally knitted goods are available for purchase at various cooperatives on the island. Despite the short distance that separates the two islands, Amantaní is quite distinct. Its soil is a rich terra cotta red, due to the high iron deposits, and the colour contrasts brightly with the deep azure blue of the lake and sky and the greenery of the local crops. For the night we split into smaller groups and billet into family homes to experience their style of living first-hand.

The following morning we visit the Uros Islands on our way back to Puno.

April 1-2 Cuzco
The trip from Puno to Cuzco takes the better part of the day. Travel through the high Altiplano region and take time to notice the stark and beautiful scenery en route.

Every year Cuzco attracts thousands of travellers who come to experience an age-old culture and to delve into its tragic and noble past. It is the perfect base for optional explorations around the city and area as well as a range of outdoor activities. We spend the next couple of days relaxing and exploring this fascinating city.

Cuzco is the continent’s oldest continuously inhabited city, and the hub of the South American travel network and in this respect is reminiscent of Kathmandu in Nepal. Both cities attract travellers who come not just to visit a unique destination but also to experience an age-old culture very different from their 20th century way of life; one could easily spend a week just in and around the area. Inca-built stone walls line most of the central streets and you don’t have to go far to see other major Inca ruins. It is a city steeped in history, tradition and legend.

Cuzco’s numerous colonial churches are one of the most common sights. The Cathedral was started in 1559 and took 100 years to build. It is also one of the city’s greatest repositories of colonial art. Immediately in front of the entrance is a vault containing the remains of the famous Inca historian, Garcilaso de la Vega. Also worth visiting are the churches of La Compañía, La Merced and San Francisco.

While most ruins are just outside of the city, the main ruin within is that of the Coricancha, once the Inca Empire’s richest temple. This ruin forms the base of the colonial church of Santo Domingo. During Inca times this temple was literally covered with gold, but within months of the arrival of the first conquistadors this incredible wealth had all been melted down. It is left to the individual imagination to envision the magnificence of the original structure.

There are several good museums in Cuzco, including the Archaeological Museum, which also houses a small art museum, the Regional History Museum and the Religious Art Museum. Our best advice for exploring Cuzco is to wear a comfortable pair of shoes, arm yourself with a city map and set off to explore!

Approximate Distance: 389km
Estimated Travel Time: 7 hours

April 3 Ollantaytambo
Travel with the local guide through the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Visit the impressive Pisac ruins and the colourful artisan market. Finish the day trip in the picturesque village of Ollantaytambo, site of another large Inca ruin. Catch your breath and prepare for the hike ahead.

Ollantaytambo is a taste of what lies ahead on the Inca Trail. This major ruin site is known as the best surviving example of Inca urban planning and engineering. It is admired for its huge steep terraces guarding the Inca Fortress and for being one of the few places where the Spanish lost a major battle during the conquest. Spend the night in this small town before heading out for the start of the hike the next morning.

Approximate Distance: 95km
Estimated Travel Time: 2.30 hours

April 4-7 Inca Trail (3B, 3L, 3D)
The 4-day Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is physically challenging but worthwhile, and the excursion is within the ability of most reasonably fit. It is a 40-km (25 mile) hike, with 3 high passes to be crossed, one of which reaches an elevation of 4200m (13776 ft). The trail is often steep, and it may rain even during the dry season. The temperatures at night may fall below zero, so it is important to come prepared.

Depart Ollantaytambo for km 82 where we begin our walk in the footsteps of the Incas. Our local crew of porters, cook and guide look after us well for the duration of the hike. Porters carry the majority of the gear for the hike, so those passengers doing the hike only carry a small daypack with water, rain gear, snacks, a camera, etc. As you walk the trail that linked this ancient empire, admire breathtaking views at every step as we move from high plateau areas to dense cloud forest. Depending on the season, you may see a great variety of flora, including miniature and large orchids, and fiery rhododendron bushes.

You pass several smaller ruin sites, the first of which is Llactapata. The second day climb the long steep path to Warmiwañusca, or Dead Woman’s Pass. At 4198 m (13769 ft) above sea level, this pass is the highest point of the trek. The second pass of the hike is at 3998 m (13113 ft) where on clear days, we enjoy superb views of the snow-capped Cordillera Vilcabamba. The trail goes through some beautiful cloud forest on the gentle climb to the third pass, where you will walk through a causeway and a tunnel, both original Inca constructions. The highest point of the third pass is at 3700m (12136 ft). On clear days you are rewarded for all this work with beautiful views of the Urubamba Valley below. Soon you reach the serene ruins of Phuyupatamarca, or the ‘Town above the Clouds’, at about 3650 m (11972 ft) above sea level. We camp for the final night close to Wiñay Wayna (Forever Young) ruins, a grandiose terraced hillside site, with panoramic views of the valley below and just a short hike from Machu Picchu.

On the final day of the hike we climb the steps to the Sun Gate overlooking the peaks that surround Machu Picchu. There is no way to describe the feeling of the first views of Machu Picchu, as the mist rises off the mountains early in the morning and the famous ruin appears in front of you.

Machu Picchu is both the best and the least known of the Inca ruins. It is not mentioned in any of the chronicles of the Spanish conquistadors and archaeologists today can do no more than speculate on its function. The local Quechua farmers in the area knew of Machu Picchu for centuries, but it was not until an 11-year-old boy led the American historian Hiram Bingham (who was in search of Vilcabamba) to the site on July 24, 1911, that the rest of the world became aware of its existence. At that time the site was covered in thick vegetation, and Bingham and his team returned in 1912 and 1915 to clear the growth. Over the years, much work has been done on excavating and studying the site. Despite these efforts, many unanswered questions remain.

You have the better part of the day to explore the site. In the afternoon, we have the chance to soak in the hot springs of Aguas Calientes before taking the train back to Cuzco.

Approximate Distance: 20km
Estimated Travel Time: 40 minutes

April 8 Cuzco
Cuzco is considered the mecca of Peru and rightly so. This beautiful colonial town offers much to the visitor with its nearby ruins, cobble-stoned streets, museums, churches and lively atmosphere. Try on of the following optional activities: horseback riding around archaeological sites such as Sacsayhuaman, Tambo Machay and Puca Pucara; white water rafting on the Urubamba River; and mountain biking down to the Sacred Valley, perhaps visiting an Inca ruin along the way.

Approximate Distance: 118km
Estimated Travel Time: 3.15 hours

April 9 Lima
Return via a quick flight to the coast and the capital, Lima. Celebrate our final evening on the tour with one last Pisco Sour.

Known as the City of Kings, Peru’s capital city Lima was founded by Francisco Pizarro on the Day of the Three Kings (Epiphany) in 1535. The Plaza de Armas is the heart of old Lima and, and it is here you find the Cathedral, Government Palace and Archbishop’s Palace. The Cathedral dates back to the 1700s and houses the remains of the conquistador Pizarro. To get a feel for colonial Lima, take a cab to the Plaza de Armas and watch the changing of the Palace Guard in the afternoon. Walk the streets surrounding the Jirón de la Unión for great examples of Spanish-colonial architecture and to get a taste for life in a large South American city.

There are many fine museums in and around the city, including the Museo Rafael Larco Herrera, which houses an equally impressive collection of pottery, mummies and textiles from the Paracas and Nazca cultures. An optional city tour visits many of the city’s highlights. The more affluent districts of Miraflores, Barranco and San Isidro, which are on the coast, offer good nightlife and cafés all within walking distance. Limeños (Lima’s residents) are friendly, and the city is filled with excellent restaurants; seafood lovers in particular should be sure to try a ceviche, for which Lima is well known.

Approximate Distance: 572km
Estimated Travel Time: 2.20 hours

April 10 Depart Lima

We arrived in Rio on Thursday night and took the Real airport bus to our hostel in Ipanema.  It was late, so we went straight to sleep (despite our unbelievably hot room).

On Friday morning I went for a run on Ipanema beach.  It felt great to be in a city where people rise early to exercise and where it was safe to wear my ipod during my jog

That day we took a tour that included stops at Pedra Bonita (a beautiful view of the city and the spot where people hang glide), the Cristo Redentor Statue, Santa Tereza and Lapa.  My favorite, by far, were the steps at Lapa, designed by a Chilean artist who had traveled to over 50 countries before visiting Brazil.  He fell in love with the country and decided to stay, and he chose to use an existing stairwell in one of the favellas for his tile work.  His intention was to use tiles of colors from the Brazilian flag, but as the project went on, people started sending him tiles from all over the world.  It is now a living, changing mosaic, and the artist is present on the steps or in his studio and more than willing to chat about his work.

That night we met up with Lucas (he was in Rio from BH for Carnaval) and his friends.  I ate acai and finally tried one of the Japanese sushi cones (mine with mushrooms, not fish, of course).  Sadly, I couldnt drink because I gave up beer for Lent.

On Saturday I went for another great run, drank an avocado smoothie and then took the bus to the Botanical Gardens.  They were amazing beautiful.  I enjoyed the cooler weather and shade of the trees and got to see a medicinal garden, a greenhouse of orchids, a hummingbird garden and the tree after which Brazil was named, among other things.  That afternoon I met Valerie and Lucas at the beach, and then spent the rest of the evening getting ready for my flight out of Brazil…

After our all-night Carnaval-camarote experience leading us into Monday morning, Valerie and I had a few low-key (or ask “low-key” as you can get in the heart of Salvador during Carnaval) couple days to round out our stay here.

On Monday I caught up a bit on sleep (its amazing how much better sleep in a bed is) and then we spend the afternoon and evening walking around our area of town.  We stopped in a few bars/cafes, drank a few beers and soaked in the surroudings.  The type of Carnaval in our neighborhood is much better (in my opinion, of course) than what we had experienced Saturday and Sunday nights in Barra - more children and older people, less crowded, more samba music instead of axe (pop).

On Tuesday we took the bus halfway to Barra, an area we had passed on our buses to Carnaval, that actually looked nice, green and conducive to running.  I had a really good run and then headed back to the hostel for breakfast.  Since it was my last day to drink beer (Im giving it up for Lent this year) and the day before I would fast for Ash Wednesday,  I had a gluttenous day full of beer, food and chocolate.  Delicious.

On Tuesday Valerie and I got up early and managed to navigate our way to Praia do Forte, a touristy beach town north of the city.  The beach wasnt gorgeous (a little dirty as you can see from the picture) but it didnt smell of urine, which was an improvement from Salvador.  We visited the turtle preserve they have there, sat in the shade reading and walked along the beach barefoot.

We headed back to Salvador for our last night and found it to be crowded but not nearly as chaotic.  In all honestly, I didnt love Salvador, but I wonder how I would have felt if I had visited during another time.  Realistically, I will probably never find out, as my future travel to Brazil probably wont include it here.  What I can say is that the people here in Salvador are kinder and more helpful than in any other city I have ever visited (with the possible exception of Louisville, KY).

Today we are going to visit the famous chruch, Nossa Senhora do Bonfim, and then we head to the airport to fly to my last stop in Brazil - Rio de Janeiro.

Salvador is the city in Brazil with the biggest African influence, which means two (of many things): the food is spicier here (finally!) and the music is great - samba with strong African drum influences.  Both of those things came into play during our second day celebrating Carnaval.

We were each given a t-shirt at check in (part of the cost of the hostel’s Carnaval package, and definitely cuter than any of the other abadas we bought separately) and were told to show up in the lobby at 1.  Shortly after, a group of six musicians (all but one playing percussion) walked up to the loft level overlooking the cafe and started to play. 

They served us a free lunch (rice, beans, beef stew for the meat eaters and a VERY spicey hearts of palm dish that burnt my lips and was delicious) and then everyone headed outside to follow the band in a parade through the streets of our neighborhood, Pelourinho.

Two pretty cool things happened during our mini-bloco.  One: Valerie and I had cologne sprayed on us by Filhos do Ghandy (Sons of Ghandi - a men-only group that dresses in white robes, white towels and blue and white beads over their shoulders).  I’m not sure if it is a complement or an insult, but either way it is tradition.  Two: I actually danced.  And enjoyed it.  Amazing.

We went back to the hostel and rested for a bit until it was time to head back down to Barra for our camarote.  The bus down there was crowded, but it didnt even compare to the crowd in the streets once we arrived.  For lack of a better idea, we had to navigate our way through the unbelievably crowded streets, along side the bloco (and not just any bloco, but one of the most popular), avoiding fights, drunk people, and kisses.  Somehow we successfully made it to our save haven, and with our matching green shirts and tickets, we were allowed in.

At first I was impressed; probably from the sense of relief and safety more than anything else.  The camarote was part of a hotel and included (among other things) several food and drink stands, an internet cafe, an area with a dj, another area with a samba band, a balcony to look over the street onto the blocos, an area to have your abada personalized, a massage room, a game room and a cinema. 

We grabbed a bite to eat and while chatting, met two guys who work for the UN in East Timor.  We followed them outside to check out the bloco music and then moved on to the samba band (which I MUCH prefer) and I had a great time dancing (again, I know!) for a bit.  One of the guys was local (from Salvador) and warned us that the best/safest thing to do was to stay in the camarote until it closed at 5am, otherwise we would have to fight the crowds and would have a hard time getting a taxi or a bus.  Basically we were stuck and all of the sudden our camarote seemed more like a high school lock-in or project graduation than something we had willingly paid a large sum of money and fought our way through a crowd for.

Then exhaustion set in and Valerie and I headed back upstairs to the cinema.  We took advantage of the dark room and large pillow/beanbag type chairs and slept through five or so movies.  It may sound lame, but it was all we had in us.  And even though the movies were not exactly quiet, they were much easier on the ears than the horribly loud bloco trucks.

At 5am, they turned off the movies and woke up the sleepers.  We made our way outside, and day had broke.  People were cleaning up the streets and the buses had started to run.  We made our way back to the hostel and decided that we would forgo our third abada - that we can say we have truly experienced Carnaval and that the risk of trying to do it again is not worth the possible reward.

Now if only that samba band would come back to the hostel for another mid-day, mini parade…

Our first night celebrating Carnaval was a success!  As expected, I realize that it isnt really my thing, but I am thrilled to be here experiencing it.  And I continue to be impressed with how well run it is and how kind and helpful everyone we have encountered has been.

Tonight was our bloco night, so Valerie and I both put on our matching abadas (t-shirts, our entry into the parade) and headed down to Barra.  We got off the bus and managed to find our way to the perfect spot.  We were able to watch two other blocos and see the sunset before ours started.

The bloco is essentially a parade float and consists of two huge trucks.  The first has on it the musicians (mostly Brazilian pop music on this circuit) and the second sells drinks and contains a bathroom.  The bloco is roped off by dozens of people holding a rope and they - plus security officers - only allow those with the right t-shirt to get in.

Valerie and I joined and followed the bloco for an hour or so.  By the time I tired of it (it moved really slowly and the music wasnt exactly our cup of tea) and suggested we duck out at the next street, it started to rain.  We navigated our way to the bus stop and as we waited for our bus, a guy and two girls approached us asking for our abadas.  One of the girls had one but the other two didnt, so Valerie and I each sold ours for 20 reias.  Again, the universe is on our side with all of this.

Having sold our t-shirts, we rode the bus home in our sports bras.  The funniest part?  No one even gave us a second glance.  Welcome to Carnaval!

Honestly?  Valerie and I were not exactly excited about heading to Salvador for Carnaval.  Despite the fact that it was the central part of our trip planning and that we already spent hundreds of dollars on prepaid rooms and Carnaval tickets, we were a little anxious about it.  We even called the airline to see how much it would cost to switch our tickets to a later date and stay in BH longer.  Sadly, it was too much.

We arrived yesterday morning and after a little mishap with the airport shuttle bus, things started to get better, as though the universe were confirming that we were supposed to be here.

Salvador’s Carnaval is different than Rio or Recife in that ordinary people - like us - get to participate.  There are three ways to do Carnaval here - in a camarote (a secure area where people are elevated above the crowd and watch the parad), in a bloco (a roped off area behind one band where people follow and become part of the parade) or as “popcorn” (so called because without a formal ticket, you are in the crowds and have to jump up and down to see anything).  Originally we opted for two blocos and one camarote.  We purchased them in advance.

In BH Valerie and I decided that we probably should have done two camarotes (though more expensive) and one bloco.  And, like magic, we got an email that one of our blocos was cancelled and we could exchange - for no extra cost - our purchase for a camarote.  Perfect.

What made it even better is that after taking the one+ hour bus ride to the convention center to pick up our abadas (t-shirts that serve as your ticket into Carnaval), we showed the note about having to go to the line “especial” (because of the exchange) and were escorted ahead of the long, snaking line right inside.  What could have made it more difficult was actually our golden ticket.  (Im sure that our being women and not speaking much Portuguese didnt hurt either).

We were handed off from one helpful volunteer to the next (nine different people in total, one of whom is named Thaddeus, like my dad - apparently a fairly common name here), passing in front of any line that existed, and within minutes, we had our six abadas (three each) and were back on the bus to the hostel.

It was a long, but satisfying trip.  We went to bed early and got a great night’s sleep, resting up for the festivities that begin today.

Tonight? Our bloco.  More later…

Our second full day in Belo Horizonte was great.  Lucas and I got up early and he dropped me off at a jogging park for my morning run.  We came back home to shower and pick up Valerie, and the three of us headed into town for a morning at the central market.  For lunch, I headed back to the cafe from Friday night and ate mushroom crepes.  Amazing.  That afternoon, Valerie and I hung out in the park reading until Lucas got off work.  And that night, for dinner, we went over to his sister’s for pizza.  It was great to meet his family (including his niece/goddaughter - only five months old) and the pizza (mushroom) was delicious.

On Wednesday morning, Lucas dropped Valerie and me off at the bus stop and we took a two hour ride to Ouro Preto.  Ouro Preto is a gorgeous old mining town - formerly the capital of Minas Gerias and now a UNESCO World Heritage site.  The cobblestone streets were hilly (to say the least), and the houses were beautiful.  The city felt very European. 

On our first afternoon we visited two of the many churches and two museums.  We learned more about the history of the city (unlike the US, its gold rush occurred while it was still a colony and with slave labor to help mine) and its residents, including many amazing stories.  The most famous artist, the son of a Portuguese man and his slave, was nicknamed Little Cripple because of a degenerative disease that caused him to lose control of his hands.  He continued to create by strapping instruments to his arms.  And the black churches in the community were decorated with gold brought by the slaves from the gold mines in their hair and under their fingernails.  Incredible.

We ate dinner at a place with a great view, and that night we went to the cinema (Wednesday was 3R night - thats like seeing a movie for less than $1.50 at home!), and I saw my third Woody Allen movie of the trip (Vicky and Christina in Barcelona).  This morning we got up and hiked around the city more.  I stopped in a local chocolate shop - it, and the waiter, were very charming, and my hearts-of-palm tart and white-chocolate-cachaca truffle were amazing.

We took the 5pm bus back to Belo Horizonte, and for our last night in town, we were invitied to Lucas’s brother’s house for dinner.  Lucas surprised us with chips and salsa (hard to come by in Brazil) and homemade guacamole.  I couldnt have been any happier.  His brother and sister-in-law have a beautiful new penthouse apartment with an open air kitchen/patio up top, and we enjoyed a delicious dinner of pasta (with mushrooms) and petite gateaux for dessert. 

It is with a happily full tummy that I head to bed to catch a few hours of sleep before my flight in the morning to Salvador - for Carnaval!!!

I woke up Thursday morning feeling better but still not great.  Valerie and I had talked about going to Porto de Galinghas for the day, but I was afraid I just couldn’t stomach the two hour bus ride (pun intended).  Instead we explored more of Central Recife and Recife Antigo.  That night we drank wine at a jazz bar and then caught some live MPB.  The next morning, our last in Recife, we slept in and swam in the pool.  The perfect way to end our time there.

On Friday the 13th, we flew to Belo Horizonte to meet up with Lucas, a friend Valerie met this time last year in New Orleans.  Lucas has been amazing in helping us plan our trip and we were excited to see him, though we weren’t sure about BH.  Each time we told someone that we were traveling there, they would give us a quizzical look along with a “hmm… that’s interesting” comment.  Thankfully, we didn’t listen to any of them.  From the moment we arrived in the city, I loved it.  It felt like home, reminding me of Kansas City.  We ate a late dinner at a cafe full of old books in the Savassi neighborhood, and from the first bite of spinach-shitake-camambert-almond salad, I was in love with this city.

On Saturday morning we got up early and drove to Santuário do Caraça, an old monestary turned inn/park.  Neither words nor pictures can describe how amazing this place was.  I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect place - it was a beautiful, religious place in the middle of the mountains, surrounded by hiking trails.  And, perhaps best of all, the weather was damp and chilly.  We had three meals a day in the cafeteria, hiked all morning and afternoon (to waterfalls, pools, dilapidated chapels on hill tops), laid around reading books, and went to Saturday evening Mass.  And, as if that weren’t enough, each night around 7pm, they would put out a tray of chicken bones, and from deep in the woods, a pair of wolves (one male, one female, coming one at a time) would march right up the steps, into a crowd full of people and eat.  It was incredible.

We got up early this morning and drove back to BH in time for Lucas to shower and change into his suit for work.  The three of us ate at a organic, vegetarian friendly self-service restaurant (have I mentioned that I love it here?) and then Valerie and I explored the city while Lucas went into work.  BH is the first planned city in Brazil, so the streets were in grids (with the exception of the main avenues, which run at a diagonal).  That, combined with the map that Lucas gave us - and marked up, enabled us to traverse the city all afternoon without getting lost.  We drank fresh juice, window shopped, attempted to visit a museum about the history of the state (have I not yet learned that everything in Brazil is closed on Mondays?), browsed through a handicraft market and strolled through the beautiful Parque Liberdade, stopping to read on a bench until Lucas got off work.  Once he did, we stopped by the house, changed and drove up to the top of a hilly neighborhood and went for a great run.  After more acai for dinner, followed by a second dinner of delicious food prepared by Lucas’s mother, I am full, exhausted, completely thrilled to be here and more than a little ready for bed…